The Crown, The History, The Planning
A self-governing British Crown Dependency, the Channel Island of Jersey is a captivating gem 85 miles south of the English coast and a mere 14 miles off the coast of France. The largest of the Channel Islands, it is still only 5 miles long and 9 miles wide. I was excited for the opportunity to visit a place so rich in beauty and historical landmarks where I could combine our mutual quest for fabulous landscape photography with my avid interest in historical exploration.
Caught in the whirlwinds of history, Jersey’s coastline is dotted with the remnants of both Medieval European history and WWII. Sixteenth Century towers can be seen alongside 20th century German bunkers and anti-tank walls. These sites are scattered around Jersey’s countryside and coastline lending it a unique atmosphere for exploration.
Leaving most of the logistics of preparation to MrFaceless, who spent weeks gathering geographical coordinates of our potential photographic stops, I eagerly joined him to prep by watching the tv series Bergerac. A British crime drama set in Jersey from 1981-1991, the storylines weave around the island where I caught glimpses of my future vacation road stops, such as La Corbière Lighthouse and the beautiful coastlines, bays, historical towers, jagged cliff tops…and, of course, the pier where Susan was killed (if you know, you know).
Here are some of the sites we visited while in Jersey.
Mont Orgueil Castle: A Sentinel of the East
Mont Orgueil Castle, also known as Gorey Castle, is a 13th century castle built on a rocky outcrop, surrounded on three sides by cliffs and the sea. This fortress stands tall, overlooking the harbor and quaint fishing village of Gorey. A network of staircases, towers, and secret rooms leads to the top where you can survey panoramic views of the Jersey coastline and the distant French coast.
In 1204, English King John lost his possessions in Normandy to the French King. Rather than swear loyalty to the French King, the people of Jersey decided to remain loyal to the English Crown and Jersey became an outpost within sight of the French coast, which at the time was a hostile enemy.
This castle served as the seat of royal authority on Jersey throughout the medieval period and was the main fortress on the Island until the construction of Elizabeth Castle in 1594. Stories of French attacks and sieges, including a plot which temporarily put it in French hands, are available to those with an avid interest.
Visiting with family during the day to experience the many twists and turns inside the medieval castle, we used sunrise and sunset hours to try and capture the majestic quality of the castle in different light settings with the Gorey fishing boats and village serving as the foreground. Check out our You Tube video to see difficulties encountered and if we were successful.
Elizabeth Castle: Island Fortress in St. Aubin’s Bay
Elizabeth Castle rises from a rocky islet in St. Aubin’s Bay. Its story spans centuries, starting as an abbey before becoming a military stronghold. Beginning as a religious sanctuary, it honored St. Helier, a 6th-century hermit (with his own interesting backstory). Over time, the need for defense grew increasingly important. In the 16th century, the construction of Elizabeth Castle began when the power of the cannon meant that the existing stronghold at Mont Orgueil was now insufficient to defend the island and the port of St Helier was vulnerable to attack by ships armed with cannons.
A new castle was needed which could withstand cannon fire and the small island was chosen, about a half a mile out to sea, connected to land at low tide by a causeway. The new Elizabeth castle would protect St. Hellier going forward and offer a safe harbor for merchant vessels. It is named after Elizabeth I who was Queen of England around the time the castle was built and became a vital part of Jersey’s defenses.
Accessing Elizabeth Castle
As with other landmarks around Jersey, access to Elizabeth Castle depends on the tide. At low tide, you
can walk across the causeway. At high tide, a ferry service provides transportation. Our timing dictated taking the ferry which afforded us a refreshing jaunt across the waterway.
At the castle, you can explore the gun emplacements, barracks, and the Hermitage. The Hermitage Rock was the home of Helibert, an ascetic hermit from Belgium, who lived there during the 6th century. Pirates murdered him and, according to local folklore, Helibert picked up his own head and carried it for 200 yards. Helibert was later named as a Saint and known as Saint Helier (now the name of the capital of Jersey). Interestingly, there are still annual pilgrimages to this area to mark his feast day, July 16. The mid-day sun prevented many landscape photo opportunities, but the surrounding beauty and colors along the edge of the castle walls were captivating and worth the trip.
Read: Jersey, Channel Islands – MrFaceless
Due to a restoration project, scaffolding made the front of the castle less than appealing for a landscape shoot. However, later in the week, I saw that the landscape foreground leading up to the castle at low tide was a wondrous sea of greens and browns which I would not hesitate to return to at a later date.
Grosnez Castle: Ruins on the Northern Coast
Grosnez Castle sits on Jersey’s rugged northern coast in St. Ouen and dates back to the 14th century.
Today, only ruins remain, yet they evoke a sense of awe and mystery, combined with local
tales of shipwrecks and smugglers. The castle’s location made it a lookout point that warned of approaching ships. Over time, it fell into disrepair, but continues to offer a glimpse into Jersey’s past.
Though ruined, Grosnez Castle is still impressive. The remains show the castle’s original layout. The panoramic views of the coastline are stunning. From here, you can see across the English Channel. It’s a perfect spot for reflection and photography. An exploratory walk down the coastal path was more than rewarding as I was confronted with colorful vistas where the craggy coastline met up with the foggy overlay across the way.
I found this to be one of the most aesthetically pleasing spots on our list, a soothing and reflective mood generated by the foggy mix of a green/purple/yellow/brown color palette that led up to the blue of the water that surrounded the ruins.
La Corbière Lighthouse: A Beacon of History and Beauty in Jersey
La Corbière is on the south-western point of Jersey in St. Brélade. It is a stunning location visually, incredibly photogenic with jagged rocks and a sweeping causeway at low tide. Providing stunning panoramic views, the rugged coastline and the vast ocean create a dramatic backdrop. Photographers can find endless opportunities to capture breathtaking images and the sunsets here are known to be particularly spectacular.
The waters around La Corbière are notoriously dangerous. Treacherous reefs and strong currents have posed a threat to ships for centuries, necessitating a need for the Lighthouse, a beacon to guide sailors and prevent shipwrecks. Another pretty aspect of La Corbière is the causeway. At low tide, a walkway appears, allowing you to walk to the lighthouse.
In the middle of summer, finding the right mix of clouds and tourist numbers proved challenging, but we did our best to capture the breathtaking feel of this site.
MP2 Tower: A Reminder of the Past
Overlooking the Lighthouse of La Corbiere, at the top of the headland, is a range-finding tower that the German occupying forces built during the Second World War. At that time they camouflaged it with paint to give it an appearance similar to an 18th-century granite round tower. Also surrounded by other WWII monuments, the juxtaposition of the beauty of La Corbière Lighthouse and these reminders of the island’s contentious past is striking.
Freedom is not just a word to those who have lost it
Frank Keiller
Jersey War Tunnels
The German Underground Hospital, now known as the Jersey War Tunnels, serves as a haunting reminder of the Channel Island’s past during World War II. A testament to the struggles and resilience of those who lived through this dark chapter in the island’s history, it depicts how the German occupation changed the lives of Jersey’s residents dramatically.
Between 1940 and 1945, the Channel Islands were the only part of the British Empire to be occupied by Nazi Germany during the War. The British government had reluctantly demilitarized Jersey, deciding that the Channel Islands were of no strategic importance and would not be defended.
Jersey’s location, however, made it a key asset for Germany, if only for the propaganda value of occupying British Territory. Situated just 14 miles off the French coast, it provided a strategic base for naval operations in the Atlantic. Military infrastructure built during this time, including bunkers, gun emplacements, and an extensive network of tunnels, altered the island’s landscape permanently, as previously described.
Stay At Your Post: Stand Firm
Orders from Britain to the Bailiff of Jersey had been to “stay at his post”, to stand firm and continue with his job unaided. This meant, in essence, co-operating with the Germans to a great extent, a role thrust upon him with no precedent or guidelines. Just prior to invasion, residents in Jersey had mere hours to decide whether to chance an evacuation to England or stay on the island and endure the unknown. Civilian casualties were high and many displaced from their homes due to military activities.
Originally intended to treat German soldiers, the hospital could accommodate around 1,000 patients. Its design included several interconnecting tunnels, which allowed for the safe movement of personnel and supplies. They relied heavily on manual labor for this massive project, which mostly came from local forced laborers and prisoners of war.
The tour offers the perspective of soldiers and these forced laborers at the hospital, as well as the civilians outside the hospital trying to cope with German occupation. A window into this turbulent time in Jersey’s history, it explores the various decisions made and the struggles around the fine line between cooperation and collaboration, as well as sharing harrowing stories of attempts at resistance, both successful and unsuccessful. It uses many personal stories to help people understand the realities of war, occupation, and the experiences of those who lived through it. It was a fascinating respite from our main landscape photography mission.
Conclusion: Don’t Forget the Jersey Cows
The many facets of Jersey served our purposes immensely. It allowed us to combine a family visit with historical exploration while witnessing and trying to capture the essence of unforgettable scenery. A blend of stunning coastlines, dramatic cliff structures, and historical architecture made it the perfect place for our photography explorations while allowing us to also pursue castle tours and family bonding.
Jersey’s castles stand as testaments to the island’s rich history. Mont Orgueil, Elizabeth Castle, and Grosnez each offer a unique glimpse into Jersey’s heritage and reminders of the struggles and triumphs of the past.
The Occupation of Jersey during WWII left lasting marks on Jersey’s landscape. Traces of concrete defenses, bunkers, and fortifications are scattered around Jersey’s countryside and coastline, not to mention the underground tunnels exhibited in the Jersey War Tunnels’ tour.
Finding out I am American, some of the locals even delighted in recounting Jersey’s influence on American history; how King Charles II gave George Carteret, Jersey Bailiff and Governor, a grant of land in the colonies in recognition for help given to him during his exile in Jersey in the 1640s… this grant of land would become New Jersey. And this was just one of a handful of such stories.
WWII and Medieval history, beautiful scenery, coastlines/bays/cliffs/ruins all captured the essence and charm of this unique destination.
I didn’t even mention yet the cream tea and the hunt for Jersey Cows. All contributed to making the exploration of Jersey Island an unforgettable holiday and landscape photography experience.
Jersey Channel Islands 2024 Gallery
We hope you have enjoyed our little journey together – the story and the video; if so please head over and leave a comment on youtube – and a like and subscribe is always much appreciated!
Until next time…..