To recap, FacelessBrotherInLaw and I are in Big Bend National Park, Texas. We’ve driven the 9 hours or so from the Dallas Fort Worth area with the aim of hiking, photographing and general tomfoolery that the pair of us engage in. My initial Big Bend post is here, or for more details about primitive camping head over here.
So far on this trip we’d had a sunset at The Window, a sunrise at The Lost Mine Trail, hiked the Grapevine Hills Trail to Balanced Rock and then another sunset at Mule Ears. All of that, plus a few adult barley sodas at the Chisos Basin, which also worked as a respite for the heat. Which, despite it being February, was well into the 80s.
Camping Pitfalls
After a sunset shoot at Mule Ears we headed for Ocotillo Grove. Being a primitive roadside campsite the road was unmade, albeit quite smooth. Even in the dark, though, we could see dust in the reflections of the headlights. That should have been a clue, but we put it down to there must have been a vehicle ahead of us recently. As it turned out, there wasn’t. We got to our alloted site to be met with what I can only describe as a stiff breeze. After a quick discussion, I parked the car close to where FacelessBrotherInLaw would be pitching his tent, in an effort to provide some cover as a wind break.
Night Activities
I had intended to do some astro or start trail timelapse/nightlapse. However the wind and dust being kicked up quickly killed that plan. So with FacelessBrotherInLaw now tucked up in his tent, I climbed into the back of the car and into my sleeping bag. Around 1am I was woken by a mix of the car rocking, the noise of the wind and some interesting language from FacelessBrotherInLaw. An increase in speed and persistence of the wind had collapsed his tent, obviously much to his chagrin. After a 15 minute joint effort aided by my trusty Olight Marauder Mini, we had the tent repitched and a selection of rocks to help anchor it down.
Morning Glory
What seemed like only a few hours later, I was awake again. It was still pitch black and the wind was, if anything, even stronger. A weary looking FacelessBrotherInLaw was packing his tent away as I pondered the likelihood of a good sunrise. Hopes were not high as we pulled out of the campsite and headed towards Santa Elena Canyon.
Another Day Another Sunrise
Santa Elena Canyon, a stunning natural wonder within Big Bend National Park in Texas, showcases the breathtaking beauty of the Chihuahuan Desert and the dramatic landscapes formed by the Rio Grande. Renowned for its towering cliffs that reach heights of over 1,500 feet, this canyon offers visitors a unique glimpse into the geological history of the region and serves as a habitat for diverse flora and fauna. From hiking adventures along scenic trails to opportunities for wildlife observation and photography, Santa Elena Canyon stands as a testament to the grandeur of nature and the cultural heritage of the area. Whether you’re an avid hiker, a photography enthusiast, or simply seeking serenity in the great outdoors, this remarkable destination promises an unforgettable experience.
Location and Accessibility
Santa Elena Canyon, a jewel nestled in Big Bend National Park, Texas, is practically begging for your attention. Located on the western side of the park, it straddles the border with Mexico, offering not just breathtaking views but also a dash of international flair. The canyon is easily accessible via the scenic Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. Once you park your car, it’s just a short stroll to the rim of the canyon. This is picture postcard territory, so bring your camera to capture the views.
Scenic Views and Landmarks
Prepare to have your breath taken away as you stand at the rim of Santa Elena Canyon. Towering limestone cliffs, some reaching heights of over 1,500 feet, loom majestically above the winding Rio Grande. The shimmering waters of the river reflect the vibrant colours of the canyon, creating a picturesque scene ideal for a leisurely afternoon or a whirlwind photo shoot.
Geological Features and Formation
Rock Formations and Erosion
The rock formations in Santa Elena Canyon are the result of millions of years of geological drama – think epic battles of water and rock, with erosion as the star of the show. The canyon itself was carved out of limestone and dolomite, a process that started way back in the Cretaceous period (yep, dinosaurs roamed these lands). The erosion created dramatic cliffs and ledges that not only add to the scenic views but also make you feel like a very tiny human in a very big world.
Significance of the Rio Grande
The Rio Grande is not just a pretty waterway; it’s the lifeblood of the canyon. This river has been sculpting the land for ages, carving the dramatic cliffs and creating unique habitats along its banks. In addition to its geological importance, the Rio Grande serves as the natural border between the United States and Mexico, lending an air of intrigue and culture to the canyon.
Flora and Fauna in the Canyon
Plant Species Unique to the Region
Santa Elena Canyon boasts a surprising variety of plant life, considering its arid surroundings. From desert wildflowers that pop with unexpected colour to resilient cacti, like the prickly pear below, that have mastered the art of survival, the flora here is as diverse as it is intriguing. Look out for the striking ocotillo plants, which resemble nature’s version of a flaming torch, standing tall against the stark landscape. There’s also the iconic yucca that thrive where least expected, adding a touch of pizazz to your canyon stroll.
Wildlife Spotting Opportunities
Santa Elena Canyon is a wildlife wonderland! It’s home to a wide variety of critters, from majestic mule deer to playful javelinas, all going about their business as you wander through their domain. Bird watchers will be delighted by the diverse avian residents, including the striking peregrine falcon and colourful canyon wrens.
Hiking Trails and Access Points
Main Hiking Trails in Santa Elena Canyon
The main trail leading into Santa Elena Canyon is a must-do for any visitor. It’s a scenic 1.7-mile round trip that takes you deep into the heart of the canyon, providing intimate views of the towering cliffs and the winding Rio Grande. There’s also the more adventurous option of the slightly longer and steeper trails, which let you explore hidden nooks and crannies, revealing even more stunning aspects of this natural wonder.
Trail Difficulty Levels
Most trails in Santa Elena Canyon are considered moderate in difficulty, making them accessible for families and casual hikers alike. However, be prepared for some uneven terrain and a few steep spots, especially if you veer off onto the more rugged paths. It’s not exactly a stroll in the park—think more like a workout with a side of jaw-dropping views. So lace up those hiking boots and get ready to embrace the great outdoors!
Visitor Information and Tips
Best Times to Visit
If you want to visit Santa Elena Canyon without melting into a puddle of sunscreen and regret, aim for spring (March to May) or fall (September to November). These months offer milder temperatures, making them perfect for hiking and enjoying the views without feeling like you’re in a sauna. Summer can be sweltering, while winter might have you shivering like a lizard in a snowstorm, so plan accordingly!
Essential Gear and Supplies
Packing for Santa Elena Canyon is like preparing for a mini-expedition: you want to be equipped, but not overloaded. Essentials include sturdy hiking boots (to combat the occasional rogue cactus), plenty of water (seriously, hydrate or die-drate), snacks (hiking fuels the soul), a good hat (think Indiana Jones chic), and a camera of course. Also, sunscreen – this canyon doesn’t mess around when it comes to sun exposure!
Photography Opportunities
Best Spots for Sunset and Sunrise Shots
The canyon offers some breathtaking spots for sunset and sunrise. The rock formations glow in vibrant oranges and pinks as the sun dips or rises, so head to the rim trails or the riverbanks for the best views. That is where we were, an hour before sunrise. The wind was still fierce, but my tripod was more than a match.
Time To Snap
With the sun rising and clouds rolling through the wind took a backseat to the photography. There are 2 sunrise opportunities here. Firstly the clouds over to the Mexican side, with the sun glistening on the mountain wall. Secondly, a few minutes later, the sun reaches the canyon itself, hitting the walls on the American side, casting a beautiful glow.
Take A Hike
With the sun up it was time to venture across the creek and take the trail parallel to the Rio Grande into the canyon. Most days this is probably a lovely hike. But the canyon acted as a funnel to the strong winds, making the hike one which came with a free sandblasting. Not fun.
Santa Elena Canyon: Final Words
In conclusion, Santa Elena Canyon offers a remarkable blend of natural beauty, rich history and outdoor adventure, making it a must-visit destination in Big Bend National Park. Whether exploring the stunning landscapes, hiking its trails, or appreciating the unique wildlife, visitors are sure to leave with lasting memories. And more than a few good images, hopefully. As you plan your trip, remember to respect the environment and embrace the tranquility that this awe-inspiring canyon has to offer. Just hope there isn’t a gale blowing!
Desert Mountains Overlook
The grandness of the Chichuahuan Desert cannot be overstated. It’s mix of harsh, arid stretches interspersed with vibrant, flourishing mountains and creeks feeding the Rio Grande make for compelling landscape photographs. As we headed away from Santa Elena Canyon we made a stop at the Desert Mountains Overlook.
Although the winds were howling, we weren’t being sandblasted. Small mercies, I know. The view, however, was stunning. Looking across the desert floor the Chisos Mountains were in the distance.
Castolon
By the late 1800s, the U.S. Army had built a camp at Castolon to watch the border during tense times. Soldiers guarded against raids, especially after the 1916 Pancho Villa attack stirred up the whole region. NPS docs note how this outpost helped keep peace amid cattle drives and feuds.
Things shifted in the early 1900s when it turned into a cotton gin and store. Ranchers like the La Harmonia family ran the place, ginning cotton from nearby fields. It became a hub for traders swapping goods with folks across the river, full of life until the 1930s.
When Big Bend became a national park in 1944, Castolon joined the mix. The Park Service took over to save these old buildings from ruin. Sadly, in 2019 a wildfire junped the Rio Grande and destroyed the La Harmonia building before firefighters could stop the spread. However, there is a small store there whilst outside there is a collection of old farm machinery.
Step back in time at this historic site. Capture the old adobe buildings against the vast desert backdrop. These human elements add a touch of history to your expansive landscape shots.
Lower Burro Mesa Trail
Lower Burro Mesa Trail, tucked away off the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive in Big Bend National Park, is a hidden gem that showcases the rugged beauty of West Texas. With dramatic vistas and a canvas of natural formations, this area is a must-visit for photography enthusiasts looking to capture the essence of the Chihuahuan Desert.
Geological Significance
This section of the park is a geological wonder, formed by ancient volcanic activity. The mesa stands tall, offering a fascinating juxtaposition of colours and textures that tell the story of eons past. The mesmerizing stratification in the rock layers provides a unique opportunity to observe and photograph the planet’s geological history in action.
Flash Floods
We’d stopped at the Lower Burro Mesa to explore the waterfall. We weren’t expecting any water, as this is a desert and the wash is only likely only active during flash flood events. But that in itself would create interesting rock patterns and textures. True to expectations, the hike was up a water free wash. But we were not disappointed as we reached the scored rock of the waterfall.
Best Times to Visit for Photography
When it comes to snapping that perfect shot at Lower Burro Mesa, timing is everything. Consider your schedule carefully to maximize your photography experience!
Seasonal Variations
Spring and fall are often heralded as the best times to visit, where mild temperatures and vibrant wildflowers create a stunning contrast against the rugged hills. Summer can be unbearably hot, while winter offers dramatic lighting but cooler weather – perfect for those willing to brave the chill!
Time of Day Considerations
Golden hour, an hour or so after sunrise and an hour before sunset, is your best friend when capturing the stunning hues of the landscape. The soft lighting enhances colours and adds depth, transforming the scenery into a magical work of art. Midday light can be harsh, so save your direct shots for those dreamy dawn and dusk moments. Or hope for cluds to act as nature’s lightbox to diffuse that harsh light.
Hot Springs
Indigenous Peoples and Hot Springs
The area has been home to various tribes, including the Chisos and the Mescalero Apache, who cherished the hot springs for both their therapeutic qualities and as a communal gathering spot – think cozy campfires, storytelling and, of course, not-so-cozy water temperatures.
Historical Use and Development
As the world turned, so did interest in these steamy treasures. In the early 1900s, the hot springs became a popular retreat for those seeking relaxation and healing. Enter the 1930s, when a group of savvy entrepreneurs recognized the springs’ potential and built bathhouses to attract visitors. After all, who wouldn’t want to lounge in a warm, mineral-rich tub while surrounded by breathtaking views? Eventually, the area became part of Big Bend National Park, ensuring these natural wonders remain accessible to all.
Geology and Formation
The hot springs at Big Bend National Park are a glorious gift from Mother Nature, heated by geothermal activity down below. This is where heat from the earth superheats water that then finds its way to the surface through cracks and fissures. This warming process has been going on for millions of years, making the springs a prime example of Mother Nature’s spa day.
Mineral Composition of the Springs
What’s bubbling up from the ground isn’t just your average water; it’s a concoction rich in minerals like calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. These minerals contribute to the therapeutic properties that have drawn visitors for generations. Soak in these waters, and you might just feel your stress melt away, along with any lingering doubts about whether this trip was worth it.
Location of the Hot Springs
The hot springs are located near Boquillas, on the eastern side of the park, not too far from the Rio Grande Village. The road is unmade and, for a section, a one way loop with a narrow track. Pay attention as there is a drop into a washout that would make for a bad day. Once parked up, the Hot Springs are a short walk past the Old Spa buildings and Rock Art.
Therapeutic Properties of Mineral Water
The mineral-rich waters are known to contain elements like sulfur, magnesium and calcium, which can help reduce inflammation, soothe sore muscles and promote relaxation. After a few days of early mornings, hikes and hot temperatures we were keen to experience some relaxation. These natural hot tubs certainly did that as they provide a cozy oasis that can boost your overall well-being – minus the fancy spa price tag!
La Clocha
After a lovely soak we made our way to our campsite at La CLocha for the night. Overlooking the Rio Grande, how could this be any better? Well, we had wind. Still. Lots of it. And that was throwing up a dust storm which would make cooking supper interesting. So we scouted around and found a more sheltered spot to start cooking, knowing that we’d have to move back to our alloted site afterwards. Supper was a lovely mix of pasta, sausage and tomato sauce. Very tasty and very needed to replenish our energy levels.
Night Games
Back at the camp site the wind was getting worse. No sunset photography happening tonight. We were also now debating what would be the best sleeping arrangements under such circumstances. To add to the woes, FacelessBrotherInLaw had sprung a puncture in his air mattress. That was it. We needed a pick me up. So out came the pre mixed Old Fashioned. Yummy. We laughed and joked as the wind rocked the car to the sound of howling coyotes in the distance. After we’d said goodbye to the bottle, I settled back to grab some sleep in the driver’s seat, with FacelessBrotherInLaw stretched out in the back of the car. This would be a rough night.
Rocked And Blasted
The main thing about photographing sunrises is the inherent need to get up early. That was not a problem this morning as we had both been awake on and off as the car was rocking steadily as it was battered by strong winds. But although we were up, we were clearly tired. This morning was our last chance for a sunrise in Big Bend as we would be leaving straight after for our next location. So without further ado, we made the car ready and headed for Panther Junction.
Panther Junction Sunrise
One last hurrah for us was a sunrise at Panther Junction. After being rocked by wind all night, for the second night running, we were awake early. Actually, we were up early, awake being a relative concept. We were leaving the park today so decided ti hit the raod early and headed to the exit. It was about 35 minutes to Panther Junction so we stopped, topped up with water and brewed some liquid magic for the journey ahead. As i looked round, I could see the first shimmerings of sunlight on the horizon. With a break in the cloud it was one last chance for a sunrise image.
Essential Photography Gear
To truly do justice to the breathtaking scenes, you’ll want to pack the right gear. Let’s break it down to ensure you’re not caught with your lens down!
Camera and Lens Recommendations
A DSLR or mirrorless camera will serve you well, paired with a versatile zoom lens (like 24-70mm) to capture both wide vistas and detailed close-ups. If you’re feeling adventurous, a prime lens with a wide aperture will yield stunning shallow depth-of-field shots. Just be prepared to lug that extra weight around!
Tripod and Filters
A sturdy tripod is an indispensable companion for long exposure shots and low-light conditions. Additionally, consider bringing a polarizing filter to cut glare and enhance colours, especially if you’re planning to photograph those sparkling desert springs.
Additional Accessories
Don’t forget extra batteries and memory cards, because the only thing worse than running out of light is running out of storage! A lens cloth to wipe away dust and smudges can also save the day and a good backpack will make it all easier to carry as you trek through the rugged terrain.
Composition Techniques for Stunning Shots
Now that you’re armed with the essentials, let’s discuss how to compose your shots like a pro!
Rule of Thirds and Leading Lines
Using the rule of thirds can help create balanced and engaging photographs. Imagine the frame split into thirds both horizontally and vertically, and position key elements along those lines or at their intersections. Additionally, look for leading lines like paths, cliffs or rivers to draw the viewer’s eye into the scene and create depth.
Framing and Perspective
Experiment with different angles and perspectives to add interest to your shots. Use natural frames (like branches or rock formations) to highlight your subject and create layers in your images. Don’t be afraid to get low or high; changing your perspective can result in striking compositions that stand out in any portfolio!
Wildlife and Landscape Photography Opportunities
Common Wildlife in the Area
Lower Burro Mesa in Big Bend National Park is a wildlife photog’s dream. You might spot quirky creatures like roadrunners strutting their stuff, jackrabbits hopping around like they own the place, and even the occasional desert tortoise making a slow and steady appearance. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the elusive mountain lion… but good luck getting them to pose for a photo! Keep your eyes peeled for bird species such as the colourful painted bunting or the majestic golden eagle, which can all add a splash of life to your shots.
Landscape Features to Capture
The landscapes at Lower Burro Mesa are nothing short of breathtaking. The dramatic cliffs, sprawling desert vistas, and the unique geology offer an array of compositions. Don’t miss the stunning Burro Mesa itself – it’s a prime subject that looks majestic at sunrise and sunset. The seasonal blooms of desert wildflowers can brighten up your shots with splashes of colour, while the sun’s golden hour light casts long shadows and creates a painterly effect on the rocks. With such diverse scenery, your camera will be working overtime!
Conclusion
Big Bend National Park is a trek to reach. But even with unrelenting winds, both FacelessBrotherInLaw and I really enjoyed the surroundings and our time there. Without a doubt, we would both go back. Plan as thoroughly as you can. Also, if you want the best location, then check out Chisos Mountain Resort. It books up quickly so be prepared to arrange your stay up to a year ahead!